Sunday, 1 July 2012

Canada Day at Cal Cheak

Most of June was rainy.  Very rainy.  Sadly, there was not enough sunshine to allow any opportunities for getting outside onto the rock.  Long weekend camping trip to Cal Cheak didn't look any more likely for a break in the weather, but ever the optimists, the climbing equipment came along for the weekend.

We had a great set up, it's a campsite I know very well, and my tarps cover almost the whole site, even the fire pit.  We spent the whole Saturday under the tarp, drinking beer and playing Yahtzee while all the rain in the whole world fell on us.  It was quite delightful, in truth. 

That evening Mert's lady friend came up for the evening and potential climbing on a Sunday that was supposed to clear up, and it was a great night around the campfire.  The next morning dawned blue and beautiful, but still absolutely saturated.  To the Wildwood for breakfast!!!

It was decided over breakfast that we should head up to Whistler village for the Canada Day parade, and let the rock try to dry.  The day was warming up and looking quite nice.  Spirits were high, and the parade was pretty fun times.  Afterwards the decision was made to head up to the crags and see how the rock was looking.

We arrived at Monkey and Weasel, and the cliff was mostly dry, with very few areas that appeared to have wet rock.  We decided that since discretion is the better part of valour, we would set up for some good old top rope climbing.

We set up for 'Reefer Madness' which is a 5.8 if you use the boulder pile to boost your start, or a 5.9 if you hit it direct, and you can really see why.  The move didn't look insane, but with it being right at the start, it was rather unnerving.  Mert went first, and took quite a few shots to achieve the direct start.  It looked pretty fun, so when it was my turn I tackled the same start.  Hit it hard and clean the first time.  It was a decent climb, to be sure.  After completing that climb I set up the station for the climb next to it,

On to 'Boozy the Clown' a short 5.10b.  Raising the bar for difficulty, but not much.  I don't love this top-roping outdoors much.  Beats up the rope too much, and is a lot less exciting.  This was a tough climb, but reasonable.  Lots of wet spots, but we enjoyed.

One more route, a 5.9 with a 5.10c variation.  I tried to break off to finish on the 10c, but I couldn't move too far up that direction, as the anchor we were using was too far off to the right.  It was another great day, but it sure was nice to get back to the beer and fire.

This is the life.

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